Armchair Admirals

For those of you who've never heard the expression, it refers to someone who has plenty of advice, but none of the experience in cruising or boating in general. We've come across any number of "Armchair Admirals" in the 9 years this idea of cruising has been formulating. We discovered that while many of our friends are genuine in their concerns for us, many other are simply jealous. I know that sounds harsh, but hey why wouldn't they be? I'm not an egotistical person, but I do live on a boat in Mexico, I've thrown caution to the wind, and I'm doing something out of the norm on my own terms. Not everyone has the ability to break out and do something adventurous. I know that without Scott I'd never be out here. It's always much easier to stay home and go to work and follow a routine than to redevelop oneself almost everyday.

So back to our "Armchair Admirals". It starts with our friends who know nothing about boating and warned us of our foolish idea to go cruising. We'd be dead, or pirates would get us, or how dangerous Mexico is, or insert any other excuse our friends used to keep us from taking off.  Then there are the boaters who never go anywhere. They give one hundred and one reasons why we can't go or why we aren't ready to go. I'd like to think it's simply they'd miss our company, but I know it's a little more complicated than that. Some of them will take off a year or two after us and it's simply easier to sit around and dream in company than watch friends take off on that adventure while one sits back and continues to dream and waits for the day when they will join in on the fun and action. There are also those who like to give advice about how we aren't ready, because they've been out there and they know what it takes. These guys are the worst. They do have the knowledge and the experience, but every experience is not the same. Times change and La Paz 17 years ago is not La Paz today. One set of friends told me not to rely on cruising guides for store locations because they change so quickly, so why rely on advice  from someone who hasn't been to a place in over a decade? Inside this group there is a sub-set who deep down inside would have to realize that more boats being "out there" cuts down on how special the experience was for them. Suddenly they aren't that special and it can be deflating to an ego. It actually couldn't be farther from the truth. Every journey is unique and special. For every person who takes it on only adds to the richness of this adventure. That's another boat full of interesting people that I hope to meet.

I don't know how long this lifestyle with exist for us, but I'm glad I did it and I'm glad that I've got a partner standing next to me who does it with me. I'm also glad that whenever an "Admiral" gave us advice we simply smiled to each other and kept on going. There's a million reasons not to be out here, but they don't come anywhere near the reasons to be here for us.

Fair Winds My Friends!

Cruising in the "slow lane"

I'd apologize for the delay in posting, but to tell the truth I've just not felt like it. I'm not sure why, but I don't really think there has been much to post. It wasn't quite idyllic, but it wasn't the horrible experience we've had in the past either. We left La Paz during the beginning of the worst of the heat taking our time north to Loreto. The idea was to make our way up to Santa Rosalia and across to Guaymas for the summer, but as always with us, plans changed. There were several beautiful anchorages on our way and at least one great new friend. Then there was a super moon party held on a desolate beach with other boaters we'd just met. That's the way with cruising. A different anchorage and different people every few days. We did have a little excitement with what we are calling "The Great Bee Swarm of 2013" I was the only victim receiving 5 stings and several bruises, but we won the war! Never has lobster tasted so good as after the swarm, but that's another story. After making it as far as Loreto, we made the decision to dump our plans to go further north and start making our way to Guaymas. It was a difference of a couple of weeks and we were ready to get off the boat. We hadn't been away from her in over 6 months and a break was much needed. The voyage was 26 hours and 120 miles across the sea, but what a great voyage we had. The sails went up 2 hours into the trip and didn't come down until almost and hour from the harbor. It's the longest we'd sailed and the furthest. To say we are proud of ourselves is an understatement. This trip has proven Reisender as a sailboat and given her crew more confidence. It was also nice to sail all night and only put on a sweat shirt and not full foul weather gear. Scott was a bit hardier than I and made it across in a T and Shorts only! Once in San Carlos we decided to put the boat to bed and head up and out of the worst of the heat. What a busy few weeks we had, but Reisender is up on stands and safely tucked away for the summer.

Yes, we seem to sail at a snails pace. The funny thing is on our trip east we made about the same distance in 2 days in our car as we did in 24 months on Reisender. We've been told that if we do decide to make a circumnavigation we would be somewhere in our 90's  when we finish. I have to laugh, because it's oh so true! We have noticed that things are so much faster up here in the States. The crowds and the noise are new to us. I was overwhelmed in Tuscon by the traffic and Scott had to drive through almost any city we came to if it wasn't 2 in the morning. The other part that is throwing us off is when asked where we are visiting from. How does one say "Mexico" and not sound uppity? Well, that's about all for now. I'll try to do better and post more info about the voyage up from La Paz to Gauymas and our haul-out.

Fair Winds My Friends

Whose a Cruiser?

Now that we are away from La Paz (although only 12 miles) we've been taking time to rest and think about things. Our life has been such a rush these last few months. Rush to get the boat ready, rush to make it to Mexico, rush to do the outside of Baja, rush to get into the Sea of Cortez, rush to La Paz, and then in La Paz it was a rush to fix the things that broke on the way here or a rush to finish things that will make our lives easier while in the Sea of Cortez (of course that was in between being social with the wonderful people we'd met there). Since coming to Balandra Cove, we've started talking to each other about different things. Things other than the water-maker, the muffler, or some other boat part, but our biggest conversation has been about when we feel we became cruisers. Sounds weird, but it happened so gently for us I'm not sure, as a matter of fact I know, neither of us can really put our thumb on a time and place. Was is when we left Portland, or Astoria, or Oregon, or when we entered Mexico, or when we started spending more time at anchorage than in a marina? We just can't say. Each was an accomplishment in it's own, but what makes a cruiser a cruiser? Is it when we start to experience a different culture from the one we know? If that's it then I became a cruiser (albeit with out a boat) back in 2005, when I left my home in South Carolina and moved out West, but that doesn't really feel right. Was it when we started moving our home? We could say we started cruising in 2006 when we brought our little boat to Mexico by trailer, but again that doesn't feel right either. It was our home, but it just doesn't feel right to us to say that was the beginning. Maybe it was when we left our home port, but we never really thought of Portland as home. We lived there a number of years, but it was never a home that tugs at the heart strings, so again I'm not sure that feels right to say either. The closest we can come to that definition is when we left California. We spent 18 months there and both of us love CA, but we were already on the move with our home and we'd traveled almost 1500 miles in her by that point. So it doesn't exactly feel right saying that's the point we became cruisers either. As you can see, it happened gradually and at many different points for us. We both agree we are officially cruisers (we've put close to 2500 miles under our keel), we are in a different country far from home, and we are experiencing new and exciting things all the time. To say we are soaking up the customs, food, and scenery is a little obvious. We are trying to embrace Mexico and I think she is embracing us as well. Well we are cruisers, even if we can't say “when” it happened.

Fair Winds My Friends!

Sunset

Sunset and two of the many amazing people we've met here in La Paz!

Sunrise

Sunrise in La Paz from our boat

Haulout!

Well, we've been in contact with the haul out yard for Reisender's summer home. The yard should confirm the exact date in a few days. It's been a long time since we've had our baby out of the water and it'll be exciting to see her up on stands, also a little forlorn, but she needs the attention of a good bottom paint job and some TLC after the last 2 years. Scott and I are both looking forward to a little "land" time. Our families are expecting us late in the summer and when we return we'll start to work on the boat, but Scott agreed to splurge on a rental apartment for a month while we do the work. Living in the same space one is working on is not fun! I'm also dreaming of taking a shower everyday after we finish our work and having a nice meal without cleaning up our work first. The one request from the cats is a nice window to lounge in. I think we can try to arrange that, they have been dragged 2500 miles by sea and countless trips across country via car. The challenge of not getting accustomed to having space will be an effort, but somehow I know once we've done the work on Reisender I'll be ready to be back in my home.

The last week has been a little sad for me. We've gotten pretty close to two other boats in the marina and we've all left the marina now and gone separate ways. I know our paths will cross again, but it was a bit of a tug at my heart to see Goldenheart leave yesterday and True Blue last week. I'm happy and elated for our dear friends to be off the dock and pursuing their dreams, but at the same time I'm gonna miss my girls, the late nights of conversation, the shared challenges of projects, and the all around great company. Scott and I usually try to be away from the marina when friends leave, pretty selfish, but neither of us like "goodbyes' and choose to say, as a good friend said to us when we left, "I'll see you down the road", but this philosophy doesn't make it any easier. What does make it easier is an agreement that whenever we come into an anchorage and one of the other boats is there, the first one in makes the cocktails!

To Cynthia, Lee, Leanne, and Craig.... I raise my glass to you and the very special time we all shared!

Fair Winds My Friends!

A Few of My Favorite Things

Since arriving in Mexico I've been exposed to some wonderful new things and concepts. I thought I'd take a few minutes and review and list some of the items I really like:

Street Food
Mole
Ceviche
Friendliness of the Locals
The Locals are constantly cleaning
Platina Movie Theatres
Indio Beer
Arrachera
People going out of their way to be helpful
Full Service Laundry
In a restaurant the check isn't brought until it is asked for
No server ever rushes a guest in a restaurant
Smiles on just about everyone's face here
The Beautiful Red Sunsets
The strong sense of family that everyone has
Tajin spice on fruit
The color of the water

This is just a short list of what I'm enjoying about my time in La Paz. I can't say this list is for all of Mexico. I've only been exposed to a small portion, of what so far I find as a fascinating country.

Fair Winds My Friends